~Agricultural News~
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Noxious Weeds of
In accordance with Title 22, Chapter 24, Elmore
County Weed Control is giving notice of weeds listed as noxious by the State
of
Black Henbane*
Bohemian Knotweed
Brazilian Elodea
Buffalobur
Canada Thistle*
Common Crupina
Common Reed Phragmites
Common/European Frogbit
Curlyleaf Pondweed
Dalmatian Toadflax*
Diffuse Knapweed*
Dyer's Woad
Eurasian Watermilfoil
Fanwort
Feathered Mosquitofern
Field Bindweed*
Flowering Rush
Giant Salvina
Giant Hogweed
Giant knotweed
Hoary Alyssum*
Houndstongue*
Hydrilla
Japanese knotweed
Johnsongrass
Jointed Goatgrass*
Leafy Spurge*
Matgrass
Meadow Knapweed
Mediterranean Sage
Milium
Musk Thistle
Orange Hawkweed*
Oxeye Daisy*
Parrotfeather Milfoil
Perennial Pepperweed*
Perennial Sowthistle
Poison Hemlock*
Policemans Helmet
Puncturevine*
Purple Loosestrife*
Rush Skeletonweed*
Russian Knapweed*
Saltcedar*
Scotch Broom
Scotch Thistle*
Small Bugloss
Spotted Knapweed*
Syrian Beancaper
Tansy Ragwort
Variable-Leaf Milfoil
Vipers Bugloss
Water Chestnut
White Bryony
Whitetop*
Yellow Devil Hawkweed
Yellow Flag Iris
Yellow Floating Heart
Yellow Hawkweed
Yellow Starthistle
Yellow Toadflax*
*Found in Elmore
It shall be the duty and responsibility of
all landowners to control noxious weeds on their land and property in
accordance with this chapter and with rules promulgated by the Director.
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FAQ HORTICULTURE QUESTIONS
When spring blooms, the Elmore Extension
office deals with numerous calls concerning a variety of horticulture issues.
Mir M Seyedbagheri, Extension Educator, spends a
large percentage of his day looking at soil, plant and insect samples; giving
his expert advice and solutions. This publication is meant to inform the public
of the most common questions
FAQ HORTICULTURE QUESTIONS
1. For this desert-like area, what plants
are best for landscaping? Understanding
the environment of
2. What is xeriscaping?
It is planning and designing a water-wise landscape. In some cases, proper native plant selection
can reduce the need to irrigate at all. However, there are many who want color
all summer long. Xeriscaping involves wise design
that utilizes both native plants with drought resistant flowers to minimize
irrigation. A good plan includes soil testing, picking the right plants and
turf, setting irrigation efficiently, using organic mulches and maintaining
your new landscape design. With the right xeriscape
design, you can cut your water usage up to 50% this summer. Imagine how much
water we could conserve if at least 25% of the neighborhood followed your
example.
3. Does an organic solution work better?
Organic methods do work if the method is carried out diligently. Natures cycle
of growth and decay has served to keep forest and meadows thriving without the
intervention of man-made fertilizers. In organic gardens, natural balances
exist. The problems gardeners have are that they interrupt this natural cycle
by harvesting and removing everything. Dead leaves and crop plant residue
should be left behind to be re-used by the soil. To keep the natural processes
that feed our plants, we must add organic materials in order to improve the
soil foodweb within the soil community. Encouraging
biological diversity in your own garden can minimize the need for artificial
pest and disease control. When a gardener must intervene, the choices made are
of high importance. In some cases, the use of chemicals is needed, however if
you are a vigilant garden warrior, you can prevent most problems from ever
occurring.
4. Are there organic ways to control pest?
Here are some Low-Tech Ways To Control Pests:
Plant resistant varieties.
Turn, Turn, Turn... Turning the soil
with a tiller, garden fork, hoe or other implement can help destroy the soil
dwelling stage of many pests.
Get Into The Hand-picking Habit! Get out
in your garden every day and do a walk through, looking for trouble--and when
you find it, just pinch the offending pest between thumb and forefinger.
Use Water As A Pesticide! A strong spray
of water from a garden hose can be a surprisingly effective controller of small
caterpillars, aphids, mites, scale, and the like. One recent study at
Protect Your Seedlings. Simple barriers
such as catch crops are very effective at protecting young seedlings from
pests. A catch crop is a fast-growing
crop that is grown simultaneously with, or between successive plantings of a
main crop.
Plant A Trap. Bugs prefer certain
predictable foods. By planting a few sacrificial "trap" veggies, you
can lure them away from the veggies, you want, and then either sacrifice that
crop or nab them while they feast.
Mix Things Up. You can confuse pests by
mixing up your garden. In diversified planting (where you have, say, a tomato,
a flower, an herb, a few carrots, another tomato, some greens, etc., in a given
row), pests can't easily gain a stronghold the way they can in big single crop
plantings.
Mulch Pests Away. Mulches help control
pests by repelling and/or confusing them.
Invite beneficial insects to move in.
Get the good bugs to work for you. Leave the garden spiders alone and let them
eat. You can purchase lady bugs and praying mantis at local nurseries.
5. Iron Deficiency or Heat Stress? Check
leaves. Are the veins green but the rest is yellowing? Treat for Iron Chlorosis with
6. I have insects eating my plants leaves,
what insecticide should I use? Most
insects can be killed by a general insecticide. Unfortunately, beneficial
insects are also killed. First, we need to see what insect it is. If you are
not sure, bring a sample to the Extension Office for a diagnosis. Remember
whatever the solution, always give your plants ample
water and fertilizer to keep them strong and able to recover. In the home
garden, it is always best to practice good organic controls. You can make a
fungicide spray of sulfur dust or baking soda to suppress fungus. You can use
pepper spray or garlic spray as an insecticide to keep the bugs away. Using a compost tea regularly when watering your plants will also
serve to keep insects away. If the pests are out of control then you may
have to resort to chemicals. As always, when using any chemicals, look at the
ingredients and follow all directions.
7. What is the best soil for my plants? Healthy
soil makes a healthy plant which will therefore be stronger and more resistant
to disease. Most of the problems that gardeners experience can be attributed to
poor unhealthy soil. Good soil is 1/3 top soil, 1/3 sand and 1/3 organic matter
(good quality compost or manure).
8. What is the best way to feed my plants?
In gardens and yards, the best is foliar feeding or soil applied fertilizers.
9. What is Compost Tea and can it be used
for a fungicide? Compost tea has long
been used as a fertilizer but it has been documented that good quality compost
tea may also help plants suppress fungal diseases. However, it can also have high soluble salt
that could damage your plants.
10. How do you make Compost Tea? To make your own, follow these directions:
Use a burlap or cheesecloth bag
containing 1 gallon of manure- based compost.
Steep in a 5 gallon bucket of water.
Leave it in a warm place for 3 days.
Stir it well and several times
through-out the day.
Remove the bag and put the liquid in a
sprayer or a watering can.
Remove all leaves damaged by disease,
then spray or sprinkle the tea over the plant.
Repeat every 3 to 4 days if the plants
still shows symptoms.
This spray is most effective when applied in
the evening so plant leaves will remain moist for a few hours.
11. Bacterial Wilt: The main symptom of this
disease is severe wilting of the vines, followed by rapid death of the plant.
The disease is caused by the bacterium Erwinia tracheiphila, and at first may only affect a few vines on a
plant. However, as the disease progresses, more leaves wilt, and eventually the
entire vine is affected. Bacterial wilt is most severe
on cucumber and cantaloupe and less severe on squash, pumpkin and watermelon.
There is no chemical solution. The bacteria are carried from plant to plant by
striped or spotted cucumber beetles. The beetles spread the wilt bacterium by
feeding on infected vines and then feeding on healthy plants. Bacterial wilt
can be reduced in your garden if the beetles are kept under control at the
first sign of activity.
12. What is Fusarium,
Verticillium Wilt and Curly-top? The verticillium
wilt is caused by the soil-borne fungi; most apt to appear in July and August
with signs of wilting. Chronic symptoms include small, yellow foliage, leaf
scorch (marginal browning) and slow growth. If not caught in time, Verticillium wilt will cause a sudden and total collapse of
the plant. Fungicides will not cure infected plants. Since it is a soil fungi, you will probably not be able to save the plants and
must buy resistant ones. Remove all infested plants and debris. When you buy
plants from the nursery, look for resistant types that have on the label either
FW or VW & Curly-top.
FAQs about TREES
13. What is the best thing I can do to prevent disease
or insect damage to my trees?
First, do a complete visual check of
your trees and shrubs 3 times as year. Early spring, mid-summer and fall
Deep Root Feed: Your best defense is a
healthy tree. Strong vigorous trees are less susceptible to disease or insect
invasions. After treating a tree for any
disease, it is always recommended that you do a deep root feed to strengthen
the tree. Use a good liquid fertilizer. In our area most trees prefer a
fertilizer with a
14. How do I do a deep root feed?
Using a soil probe which can be borrowed
from the Extension Office or use any tool that will make small silver dollar
size holes in the ground. Place15-20 holes in the ground around the root. This can also be done with a shovel, by pushing soil off to one
side however it is not as effective nor will it go as deep as the soil probe
which typically penetrates 12 inches.
Purchase liquid fertilizer with N-P-K
rations of 20-20-20 or
Pour 2 pints of fertilizer solution
(including 5 ozs. of chelated
zinc and iron) in five gallons of water. Mix thoroughly. Please always read the
label instructions and follow completely.
Fill each of the holes with the solution
until it drains. Repeat in all the holes until the solution is gone. For
smaller trees, you can use Ό -½ of the indicated amount.
Note:
if you are not able to get liquid fertilizer, you can substitute four cups of
dry granular fertilizer with similar rations (20-20-20) and chelated
or granulated zinc and iron. In this case, it may take longer for the
fertilizer to move down to the root zone.
15. What causes the leaves on my tree to be have dead spots? Anthracnose is a fungus disease reported
quite often in
16. What is making my trees leaves turn brown
and falling off ? (not autumn
season) Could be several issues so it usually best to bring a
sample for diagnosis. One
possibility is heat-drought-water stress.
Solution:
Check leaves. Are the veins green but
the rest is yellowing?
Treat for Iron Chlorosis
Deep Root Feed with
17. My evergreen tree is dropping needles:
needles are spotted and dying. Needlecast
(Rhizosphaera): starts on lower branches and works its
way up.
Prune the lowest whorl of branches at
first opportunity.
Clean out debris from in and around
trees then remove and destroy debris.
Avoid planting in low-lying areas with
poor air drainage.
Space plants for good air circulation.
Control weeds around the bases of trees.
Shear trees during dry weather.
18. Trees have blight? How do I treat it?
Prune
and dispose of diseased twigs and branches, rake up all fallen leaves and twigs
and burn it. Disinfect all pruning tools with a mild solution of bleach and
water with a few drops of dish soap. Dip the tool after each cut. Any open
areas left from the cuttings should be lightly coated with the solution.Elemental Sulfur dust can be applied from the base
of the trunk to the dripline as a general natural
fungicide. Read & follow directions completely.
19. My tree has red burnt flowers. Fire Blight? Fire blight gets its name from the burnt
appearance of affected blossoms and twigs.
Flowers turn brown and wilt; twigs shrivel and blacken, the ends often
curling. There is no cure for fire blight and the best way to deal with the
infection is to remove infected stems and branches cutting no less than 8
inches up from the infected area.
Because the bacteria are so easily transmitted, care should be taken in
disposing of infected plant material. Either burn or discard in the trash. Do not leave infected material where the
bacteria might be spread to surrounding bushes or trees. Care should also be taken with tools which
have come into contact with the bacteria.
Tools can be sterilized in an alcohol solution (three parts denatured
alcohol to one part water). Diluted
household bleach can also be used (one part bleach to nine parts water) as long
as the tools are wiped dry after disinfecting to prevent corrosion.
20. My spruce has web-like areas and with
speckled needles.
Spider mites-Treat with dormant oil or with miticide when mites are active in spring and fall. It is also effective to spray wash with high pressure
water.
21. Why does my trees have
discolored stains on the trunk? Looking closer the tissue underneath is dead.
There are many forms of tree cankers. It is always best to bring a sample to
your local extension office for a definite diagnosis.
Canker
symptoms include dying or dead branches, with wilted leaves among healthy
leaves. Cankers develop on the bark and appear dark or discolored. Cankers
infect trees that are weakened due to disease, borers or stress. Can be fungal
or bacterial, enters at the wound-site. It is important to get trees healthy
with deep root feed & fungicide.
22. Why do my evergreen needles have cottony
growths on them.
Cottony
Scale: Spray with insecticide when the insects are active, usually in April-May
and July-Aug.
23. Why is my tree discolored and leaking slimy
stuff? It could be Slime Flux, a
bacterial disease. Yeast grows on the
slime. Prevent stress on tree, deep root feed to strengthen and make healthy.
24. I have branches on my trees where all the
leaves are wilting & others are stunted. What could be causing this? There
are other stress factors that can cause these symptoms. One prevalent disease
is Verticillium Wilt. This is a soil-born pathogen
that is very hard to control. You may have to eventual get
rid of the tree and plant a resistant variety. However, many trees can
recover. The best step is to get the
tree healthy with a deep root feed. Fungicides are not effective for control of
this disease.
a) Why is my tree acting like it is fall in summer? Leaves are getting brown patches and falling
off. One of the most common problems in
our area is Anthracnose. This fungus infects large veined leaves more often,
caused by fungus usually brought on by cold and wet spring. Rake and destroy fallen leaves. Avoid overhead irrigation and promote good air
circulation. Disinfect all pruning tools with a mild solution of bleach and
water with a few drops of dish soap. Dip the tool after each cut. Any open
areas left from the cuttings should be lightly coated with the solution. Treat
tree with fungicide. Follow with early spring fungicide. If you use a chemical
garden fungicide, such as Ortho Daconil, Bonide garden & ornamental fungicide, or a general lawn
and garden fungicide---please read all directions carefully and used as
directed.
25. There are brown spots on my tree leaves and
some are completely brown and falling off the tree. This is commonly known as Leafspot.
Treat the same as
Anthracnose.
26. What if I dont want to use a chemical
fungicide. You may use other organic
alternatives to chemicals such as:
Barriers: A light spray of vegetable oil
or highly refined horticulture oil coats leaf structures and acts as a barrier
to fungal diseases, especially rusts and mildew.
Plant products: Garlic can be used as a
potent broad-spectrum insecticide and it has fungicidal properties when blended
with water, strained and applied to the leaves. The same is true of compost
tea*.
Baking Soda: Actually this may come
closer to killing off fungus than most fungicide. Its also nontoxic. Mix 2
teaspoons per gallon of water, adding a few drops of dish soap to help the
solution stick to the plants.
Bonide -
Tomato And Vegetable 3 In 1 or Lilly Miller - Cueva Copper Soap Most of these organic solutions have to
be applied at least every 10 days during growing season.
The UI Elmore County Extension office
provides a wealth of horticulture information.
If your lawn, trees, garden plants or
ornamentals are exhibiting signs of disease or insect damage, simply cut a
sample, place into a clean sealed bag and bring it to the office at 535 E.
Jackson.
The Extension Educator can identify the
problem and give expert recommendations. You can also have your soil tested for
nutrients and receive a detailed report along with recommendations for soil
amendments. If you have questions, call the office at 208-587-2136 ext.509 or
email us at elmore@uidaho.edu. Visit our website at:
http://www.extension.uidaho.edu/elmore/index.htm
The
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FAQS About
Soil and Fertilizing
Soil is a living system. Soil is defined as
the upper few inches or feet of the earths crust. It furnishes mechanical
support, food, water and air for growing plants. Active healthy soil contains
humus (organic matter), clay, mites & nematodes, fungi & bacteria,
plant roots, decaying organisms, air & water, and finally sand & silt.
A good gardener understands the importance of active healthy soil. Robert
Rodale, former editor of Organic Gardening magazine said, "Feeding a plant artificial fertilizers is basically the same as
feeding a person intravenously." Plants, like us, can't survive on junk
food, either. Rodale also emphasized what science has always confirmed: a
successful garden begins with healthy soil, "Ninety percent of all garden
failures are caused by poor soil," he said.
The Elmore County Extension office receives
over 100 calls monthly related to garden issues. At this time of year, we get a
lot of questions regarding spring soil preparation. Here are the top 25
questions we encounter each year.
1. How do I know what type of soil I have?
How do I know if my soil is healthy or if I need to add something to make it
right for planting? Visual symptoms can be used to identify problems, but
ultimately a soil test is the best way for an accurate diagnosis. If you
suspect salinity problems, the Extension Office can do a soil test. You can
borrow a soil probe and get a lab soil bag.
Collect soil samples in various places from the top 6 to 12 inches of
soil and place in a clean sterile bucket; mix it well. Then place a pound of soil
in the bag and take it to your local extension office. You will receive a
detailed soil analyses along with expert recommendations from the Extension
Educator.
2. What is the best type of soil? There are
three types of soils, loam is the most favorable for
plant growth.
Loam
Soils-Best
A mix of sand, silt, clay and organic matter
Loose and look rich
When squeezed in the hand, it forms a ball
Normally absorb and store moisture well
Clay and Silt Soils-Good
Made of tiny particles
Feel slick and sticky when wet
Make snakes when rolled between your hands
Hold moisture well
Resist water infiltration
Are easily compacted
Water often puddles on their surface
Contain large particles which are visible to
the unaided eye
Are usually light in color
Sand feels gritty and will not form a ball
when squeezed in your hand
Loose and drain easily
3. What will a soil test tell me? Soil testing
will give a report that typically evaluates macro nutrients (N-P-K),
micronutrients (zinc-iron etc), pH and EC (electrical conductivity) as part of
a routine analysis. If the pH is high (>8.5), sodium adsorption ratio (SAR)
should also be calculated. The report will tell you the texture and cation exchange capacity, as well. A more in depth report
will detect all the macro & micro nutrients, showing the ideal ratio
compared to your ratio. Your Extension Educator can then use this report to
give an accurate recommendation on what amendments your soil may need.
4. How much water typically will my soil
hold?
TEXTURE
CAPACITY (inches water per foot soil)
Coarse: coarse to loamy sand 0.5 -
1.0
Light: loamy fine sand to fine sandy
loam 1.0 - 1.5
Medium: very fine sandy loam to silt 1.5 - 2.0
Fine:
sandy clay loam to clay 2.0 -
2.5
5. Why do we need to add iron in the soil?
·
Aids in energy
transfer
·
Activator for
enzymes that control respiration
·
Required for
chlorophyll formation
6. How do I get the soil ready for planting
a new flower garden or vegetable garden? First you need to know what type of soil
you have and the Ph level.
Generally,
the normal preparation for the soil is to apply the following:
2 cubic yard of good quality compost (salts
<3 mmohS/cm & C:N
ratio of 20-1)
Apply 20 lbs per 1,000 sq.ft. of elemental sulfur
Fertilizer (15-15-15) with added chelated zinc & iron.
Till this mixture into the soil to a depth
of about 3-6 inches.
7. What is fertilizer? A fertilizer is any
substance that contains one or more recognized plant nutrients. It is made up
of mineral salts containing nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)
which when dissolved in water, will provide those 3 major nutrients.
Fertilizers may be divided into two broad categories, natural and man-made.
Natural fertilizers generally originate from unprocessed organism sources such
as plants or animals. Man-made fertilizers can be organic (for example, urea)
or inorganic (for example, superphosphate).
8. How do I know what fertilizer to use?
Soil pH should be considered when selecting the fertilizer. Slow-release fertilizers are preferred, but
similar results can be obtained using small amounts of soluble fertilizers
applied frequently. Read and follow all label instructions and safety
precautions
The
analysis, or grade, of a fertilizer refers to the amount of nitrogen (N),
phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in the fertilizer. The analysis is always
printed on the fertilizer label. A well balanced fertilizer of 15-15-15 (NPK)
is recommended with added zinc & iron.
9. What are organic fertilizers? These fertilizers
are not man-made chemicals but made from organic matter. There are two types of
organic fertilizers.
Plant: compost made from decomposed plants,
vegetables and fruits to form a more stable soil like material.
Animal: such as cow or chicken manures.
Manure is an excellent fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium
and other nutrients. It also adds organic matter to the soil which may improve
soil structure, aeration, soil moisture-holding capacity, and water
infiltration. Poultry manure is typically higher in nitrogen. Whatever manure you use, be sure that it is
weed seed free and salt content is low.
10. What is organic matter? Organic matter (
11. Is using manure a safe means of
incorporating organic matter in your soil?
Yes,
if the manure is composted or sterilized as opposed to raw manure. Composted
manure offers advantages over raw manure including macronutrients, weed control
and disease control. It provides substantial quantities of the macronutrients
nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Microorganisms in the compost pile holds nutrients which
prevents leaching. Raw manure can have
weed seeds and will not be sterile. Another consideration is the salt content.
12. How do I apply fertilizers? When using
commercial fertilizer, always carefully read and follow all directions.
Gardens: incorporate into the soil along
with topsoil and organic matter or you can band it two (2) inches to the side
of the garden row.
Lawns: Fertilizer for lawns should be 3:1:2 ratio. Established lawns require 0.5 to 1.0 pound of N per
1,000 square feet per month of active growth. So divide that amount into
thirds. Apply September, November and late May of early June.
Shrubs/trees: Spread fertilizer around the
drip-line. However, the best treatment is a deep root feed. Mix liquid
fertilizer, makes small holes around the drip-line and fill with solution. This
will take it directly to the roots where it will then be taken up into the
entire shrub or tree.
13. Does my soil need anything else besides
N-P-K fertilizer? Yes, good compost and good healthy soil needs secondary
elements and micronutrients. There are 16 elements that are now considered
essential.
14. What are secondary elements &
micronutrients?
i. Secondary
nutrients: Ca, Mg, S
ii. Micro nutrients: (B), (Cu), (Fe), (Mn), (Mo), (Zn), (Cl)
15. What is Compost Tea? This is a liquid
made from steeping water with manure or compost. This can be bought
commercially or you can make it yourself. Research shows that compost tea, long
used as a fertilizer, can also help plants fight off fungal diseases such as
powdery mildew and tomato late blight. Microorganisms in the compost apparently
either grow more successfully than or actively attack the disease causing
fungus.
16. So you have a recipe for compost tea?
Make the tea by steeping a burlap or cheesecloth bag containing 1 gallon of
well -aged, manure- based compost in a 5 gallon bucket of water. Stir it well
and leave it in a warm place for 3 days. Then remove the bag and put the liquid
in a sprayer or a watering can. Remove all leaves damaged by disease, then
spray or sprinkle the tea over the whole plant. Repeat every 3 to 4 days if the
plants still shows symptoms. This spray is most effective when applied in the
evening so plant leaves will remain moist for a few hours.
17. What is Cation
Exchange Capacity? In soil science, cation exchange
capacity (CEC) is defined as the capacity of a soil for ion exchange of cations (positive charged elements) between the soil and
the soil solution. CEC is used as a measure of fertility, nutrient retention
capacity, and the capacity to protect groundwater from cation
contamination.
18. What are soil aggregates? Soil
aggregates are clumps of soil particles that are held together by moist clay,
organic matter, bacteria and fungi. These particles fit together creating
varying sizes of space which are needed for microbial, oxygen and water
movement.
19. How do I know what the salt content of
my soil is? Visual symptoms of the plants can be used to identify these
problems, but ultimately a soil test is the best way for an accurate diagnosis.
20. How high can the salt be in my soil? The
acceptable base saturation limit for sodium is <5%. Soil salinity is the
salt content in the soil. Stalinization is a process that results from:
high levels of salt
in the soils.
landscape features
that allow salts to become mobile. (movement of water
table)
climatic trends
that favor accumulation.
human activities
such as land clearing and aquaculture activities.
Salts
can also be deposited via dust and precipitation. As the sodium predominates,
soils can become sodic. Sodic
soils tend to have very poor structure which limits or prevents water
infiltration and drainage. The consequences of salinity are
detrimental effects
on plant growth and yield
damage to
infrastructure (roads, bricks, corrosion of pipes and cables)
reduction of water
quality for users, sedimentation problems
soil erosion
21. What is the importance of the Soil PH?
It is a measure of the soil acidity or Soil alkalinity. An acid solution has a
pH value less than 7. While a basic solution always has a pH
larger than 7. The pH can affect the availability of nutrients in the
soil. Many nutrient cations such as zinc (Zn2+), aluminium (Al3+), iron (Fe2+), copper (Cu2+), cobalt (Co2+),
and manganese (Mn2+) are soluble and available for uptake by plants below pH
5.0, although their availability can be excessive and thus toxic in more acidic
conditions. In more alkaline conditions they are less available, and symptoms
of nutrient deficiency may result, including thin plant stems, yellowing (chlorosis) or mottling of leaves, and slow or stunted
growth. Before altering the pH levels, you should have a pH soil test. Adding
elemental sulfur will lower the pH.
22. What is the PH range for our area? (
23. What is Humic acid? Humic acid are
a family of organic molecules made up of very long carbon chains and numerous
active radicals such as phenols and aeromatics. Humic substances are rich in carbons, which fuel the
activities of beneficial soil microorganisms. Humic
substances have been documented to interact in some manner with over 50
elements from the periodic table. Humic acids are now
being used on hundreds of thousands of acres for enhancing soil physical,
chemical and biological properties and fertilizer use efficiency. This has
economically benefited the growers, the soil environment, and has strong
implications for surface and ground water protection.
24. What are benefits of adding Humic substances to the soil? It
can hold 80-90% of its weight in moisture, therefore
making your soil more drought-resistant. It reduces compaction, giving better
root penetration and water movement.
25. What types of materials do you use for
composting? It has been done with a wide variety of substrates including yard
waste, food waste, and manure. Do not
use: Metal, glass, rubber, domestic pet waste, meat/bones, fat-grease-butter-mayo,
peanut butter, cheese or dairy products, fish products or any substance
contaminated with pesticides or materials that attract.
If you have further questions, need a soil
test or a solution to a horticulture issue, please
call us at 208-587-2136 ext 509 or email us at elmore@uidaho.edu or stop by the
office at 535 E
Submitted to Hi-Lites April 2010 mydocs:
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